MacAusland , born Taunton, Massachusetts. He conceived the magazine in his mind in the late s and began putting the pieces for it together. At the time, all established publications with food coverage in them still worshipped exclusively at the altar of Home Economics. It was a less than auspicious time for a gourmet food magazine. Even a decent glass of wine with dinner was a challenge, to say the least.
Nascent American wineries had been killed off by Prohibition; European market access was difficult owing to World War Two which had begun one year before. By the time the first issue came out, Europe was at war, and America would enter later in the same year. MacAusland and his intrepid team of writers and editors, however, assured their audience that the time was perfect for a magazine that celebrated the good things in life.
MacAusland approached a Boston artist Samuel Chamberlain who agreed to be an out-of-house resource. Chamberlain was useful because he could both illustrate, and write well. Pearl Metzelthin would be the first editor-in-chief. Pp and Despite the improbable odds on the surface at least, Gourmet Magazine was launched December , though the cover was dated January Gourmet Magazine. September The main piece was on the food and wine of Burgundy. MacAusland was 50 years old at the time.
First issue Gourmet magazine. January Cover by by Henry Stahlhut. Against all odds, perhaps, Gourmet Magazine was a success from the start, because it gave people an escape from the times. In , Clementine Paddleford came onboard as a regular contributor.
The magazine started running serial narrative articles that became popular with readers. The covers were often by Henry Stahlhut and are now collected and sold as artwork in their own right.
Stahlhut continued to do covers for Gourmet magazine until around The covers were uncluttered with text, to let the artwork shine through. There would be lots of text inside the magazine, but the cover was for visual communication.
It also was the home of founder and Publisher Earle MacAusland — and his poodles and terriers. Two other editors shared the office with Caroline… Although there was a kitchen on the premises, all three editors tried out recipes at home.
MacAusland, but we were warned not to go in there. A year or two before I got there, he had thrown a knife at someone. Critic for now-gone Gourmet magazine savors the memories.
Tucson, Arizona: Arizona Daily Star. Monday, 28 December James Beard — was an associate-editor editor in the late s. He left after a failing out with Earle MacAusland in He left in after feuding with MacAusland over a gaffe — Beard had reprinted one of his Gourmet columns almost verbatim in an advertising booklet.
The two eventually buried the hatchet and Beard returned to the magazine in A issue introduced Americans to Key Lime Pie, in the middle of rationing. This was aspirational food indeed, for Americans tired of Depression, tired of war, and looking eagerly to sunny times ahead.
Gourmet Magazine August Louis de Gouy died in Diat laid claim to having invented Vichyssoise. From to , the magazine surveyed French cooking region by region, but even while this massive exercise was being undertaken, other cuisines besides French had started to claim print space in the magazine. In the s, the magazine started to become well known for two things — its romantic treatment of food, and overly-elaborate recipes that required ten kitchen helpers and ingredients — such as avocados — that no one could get in America.
April issue of Gourmet Magazine showing avocados, which would have been a near-impossible ingredient for most Americans to get. Also in the s, the magazine began to tie food with travel, by anchoring food in its locale in minute detail, resonating with the number of Americans who had been to Europe during the war or who could now afford to get there at least once in a lifetime.
Rather than simply providing practical recipes for home use, Gourmet provided armchair travel and a fantasy lifestyle to transport readers from the ordinary. In the s, the tie with travel became far stronger even, with lots of colour photographs and on-location shots.
Gourmet Magazine August , travel to Europe was becoming easier for the aspirational middle-class. By the end of the s, the magazine had collected a group of writers with specialist, even academic, expertise on certain topics, rather than the all-purpose writers it had relied on before. Gold died last year of cancer. Somehow, this book hit a vein with so many people.
That happened for Reichl as an 8-year-old growing up in Manhattan. Her father, a German-Jewish immigrant and a book designer, enjoyed visiting used bookstores on weekends, taking his daughter with him. Tristram Coffin wrote evocatively of New England seascapes and crustaceans.
I realized that if I paid attention to what was happening to me on a daily basis, what an extraordinary life I could have. This was one of them. In retrospect I feel like a coward for having put up with any of that, but it was what we all considered the way of the world. I hope my granddaughters will live in a better one. The book details that vision and how it sometimes conflicted with old-guard readers — including a decision she made over a cupcake photo.
Why was it so upsetting to so many people? Food suddenly belonged to a much larger group of people. Instead of [food] currents trickling down from the tables of wealth, [now there was] food-cart food, street food, tacos.
Flavors were trickling up to the tables of white-tablecloth restaurants. They did not like that one bit. The disquisition even contained a reference to infamous Nazi doctor Josef Mengele.
She told her Cambridge audience about back-and-forth discussions with Wallace in which she urged him to remove the Mengele reference, among other things. Two canceled. Just a few minutes from the kitchen every day. I reined myself in, tried to slow down. That will not change. For a moment I was too stunned to speak. Si drew himself up. It is very successful. How are we supposed to make it back if the recipes live on Epicurious? Larry ignored me. Salaries for twelve cooks, three dishwashers, a photographer, and his assistant.
Food costs alone run more than a hundred grand a year. Props for photographs. Corporate charges for the kitchen. Not to mention copyediting the recipes. How could anyone? Of course we should have our own website. Food sites are huge. We stood there, the two of us, envisioning the huge piles of food the cooks were now going to require.
Looking back, I should have just said no. But, reluctant to be a squeaky wheel, I drove on like a good girl, devoting more and more resources to a money pit that could never be solvent, a hungry maw that could never be sated, a future we could never quite reach. I knew I was tilting at windmills, but I loathe confrontation and I kept hoping that somehow it would be okay. There were high points. We were the first print magazine to hire a full-time video producer, and through her work readers came to know — and love — all the cooks.
We were able to demonstrate techniques — boning fish, icing cakes, sharpening knives. We created crazy recipes for ingredients that would never have made it into the magazine: offal, insects, corn silk, and carrot tops. Best of all, for the first time we had the luxury of space. Now, whenever someone came up with an offbeat idea, it was easy to say yes. Ian Knauer was our most unorthodox cook. A talented chef, he was also a farmer, forager, and hunter, and this unique set of skills set him apart from everyone else in the kitchen.
Alan picked it up. Ian gestured to Alan to continue.
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