Solder is soft, so over time it will deform and loosen the connection. Then the surface of the solder will oxidize, making an insulating coating. Just thermal cycling is enough to cause the connection to loosen rather quickly. The wire also becomes very stiff right up to the point where the solder ends, causing a stress point. I was actually scrolling down to say this. Those cheap Paper labels will turn completely white and lose their ink from the heat inside the panel.
The customer on that one opened up a panel 3 months after delivery and every wire label had turned white. If you decide to crimp, either use a good crimper or stick to bare wire. A 30 dollar crimp tool is a nightmare-bad recommendation and will introduce failure points at every connection in your project. Intermittent wiring failures are a pain. I saw them inside of a commercial EVSE I took apart, but have never figured out if they were a thing I could reasonably add to my home-built units.
Have occasionally posted some comments on some HAD projects that had egregious examples of fire and shock hazards. Responses to my comments varied in tone from ennui to hostile. Other comments were apparently censored.
To their credit, current HAD writers and editors seem less likely to censor and ignore comments and articles having significant dose of safety engineering, EMC, and regulatory content. In any case, the real danger is that if you people keep doing stupid shit, the state and municipal governments will find a way to regulate some of your fun pastimes into a criminal activity.
Or just raising the costs of our hobby, just like with a lot of other things. People WILL race to the bottom if given half a chance. I used to use these all the time in my industrial automation life. A big box of ferrule tips and a nice pair of bootlace crimpers they compress the tips from four directions at once! All the terminals were the screwless pushdown kind too, very useful.
Alas, these days everything I build is on 0. Has anybody seen a pushdown no screws terminal design that fits into a single row of 0. Ask and you are served: 0. I use blocks designed either for 3. That said, the ones that I was thinking of turn out to have two rows of connections, as they are a little deeper, but you could easily use a proto shield and put them on top of it, no connection required to the second pin row.
It looks like both Molex and Tyco Electric have spring release connectors in 0. Phoenix has screw terminal blocks in 0. What is the benefit going from a 4 sided ferrule crimper to a 5 or higher profile version? It seems like the professional versions are 6 sided. A square-crimped ferrule fits very well into a square-shaped hole. A hex-crimped ferrule fits better into a round hole, and should be also ok in a square-shaped hole. I use ferrules whenever I want the connection to be secure and I know it may carry significant amounts of current.
Poor contact pressure is a well-known fault scenario, and not unheard of when it comes to causes of electrical fires. I would say that an assortment of ferrules for standard mains wire sizes and a good pair of crimpers for them is a worthwhile investment for safety. Depends on the situation. Look where the crimper deposits marks. In the professional setting, ferrules are always used when connecting stranded wires.
Makes connections way more secure and easier to do. In EU, anything using stranded wire and screw terminals with line voltage — ferrules are mandatory.
That ferrule crimper is useful for other things too. Cut a small piece of soft metal tubing, place two wires into it, one one each end and crimp with the ferrule tool. Now you have a splice that is much more mechanically sound than soldering two wires together. This is a great way to attach leads to an axial resistor to use as a heating element or to a thermal fuse. I like this better than the now-standard heating element approach because with leads coming out of both ends it cannot fall out.
Were comercialy produced printers built this way that fire that was referenced could not have happened. Call em crimps around these here parts and places. Barrier strips with lock washers helps too. Cheap undersized wiring is a hostile environment. Way too many cheap- ass crimping tools common. Tinning wires to put in a screw terminal is a bad idea. Lots of good information online contraindicating the soldering of crimped connections before or after crimping.
Screw-down insert and bare not tinned copper wire has been troublesome. Hence ferrule use but they are subject to the same things indicated. Exceptions always apply. Like improper use of any and all methods including ferrule terminators, crimps of any kind, poor soldering, cheap crimpers, improper torque down, and so on.
Internet has lots of contraindicating and contradicting material. If crimped properly, there is no place for the solder to go. Ideally, there is no space between strands of stranded wire. The issue with soldering after crimping is probably that it wicks up the wire, making it stiff and making a sharp bend point. Also, if your crimp connection has insulation support, soldering the connection melts the insulation, removing insulation support.
If you can crimp just the wire portion, solder so the solder is ONLY on about half of the wire to crimp area at the end of the wire, then crimp the insulation support, that can be an advantage in sealing the crimped area against corrosion. I sometimes have trouble finding this kind of information online.
Speaking of gas tight, you should see how tight I make the screws when replacing or adding outlets in my house. No way am I going to have an outlet burn up from a loose connection. Every few years or so. Modern homes tend to use push-in particularly on switches to distribute hot line. Cheap switch breaks round five year mark and poor souls end up paying electrician waaaay to much for a fifty cent device.
There ARE other directives which a product can be tested against, such as safety, but these are not technically required for CE marking. Generally correct. Give the person a nice cigar. Most directives are not a marking directive.
And a CE mark only indicates that manufacture or vendor has attested that the product has a basis for presumption of conformity to scoped directives and standards; and does NOT indicate any certification by a third party lab or a National Body. The requirement for wire termination is not found in a directive, but will be found in the product safety standard s that scope the end-use equipment or component, and the building code BS,IEC,etc ; and same for North America.
Typically, a safety standard will require mechanical attachment methods for hazardous voltages to have two methods of securement. A properly rated and assessed ferule will meet these requirements.
Klauke is another German company that makes excellent crimping tools. I guess my one question is when it is really not appropriate to use a Ferrule? A simple one would be single core wire. What about when soldering multi-core wires onto boards or tags? When using multi-core with compression connectors like the Wago levers — or would the same logic that applies to a screw terminal apply to wago lever connectors?
The bits of individual strands that fall out sometimes are also no fun :. Stranded wire of a given gauge is made to have the same cross section as solid wire of that gauge. The smaller gauge larger number is for solid wire, the larger gauge smaller number is for solid wire.
From my understanding, they are mainly used during panel builds, IT equipment and even on flexible cables. However, I recently went to a domestic property to perform an EICR and every cable connected to the RCBOs ignore the earth fly lead which already comes crimped from the manufacturers had ferrules clamped on the ends.
Clamped on every cable with the exception of the cooker and garage supply, which from memory i believe were both 6mm cables. To be fair, the electrician who did this, I can see committed to being very neat and tidy. One of the nicest installs i have seen in a while. Pro's and Con's i suppose. My thinking was that it does protect the copper cable inside the ferrule, allowing for a better connection too i suppose!?
Feb ' Copy Link. Ferrules are mainly intended for use on Class 5 flexible and Class 6 extra-flexible cables to: Help reduce the risk of "dropping strands" or accidental shorting between terminals one reason for their use in control panels, especially "hot swap", as Class 5 conductors are often used in this type of equipment.
Help prevent damage to strands in maintenance, testing and fault-finding another reason for their use in control panels "Convert" the Class 5 or Class 6 stranded conductor into a "solid" conductor for terminals that are unsuitable for Class 5 and Class 6 conductors.
Whilst I can see that ferrules may be of use for stranded conductors Class 2 , and these are not precluded, I don't believe any manufacturer of ferrules expresses their suitability for solid conductors with less than 7 strands. Joe-not-exotic: Morning gentlepeople of the IET forum. I have seen one domestic installtion use them , and very presentable and clean installtion it looked too , and it was new build , but as you say pretty rare , on the kits for the bootlace type , there is a difference in quality , so look at tools and kit first , and reading GKenyons useful guide post is probebly the sort of place more likely , and seen them on 4 core three phase from transformers and on transformers and tool to clamp them,looks like a pair of boltcutters.
Gerrard Wilson. To avoid inappropriate separation or spreading of individual wires of fine wire conductors, suitable terminals shall be used or ends treated.
BS In some cases, it has taken more than five years for the effects to reach maturity. Demonstrating this, the photograph below has two types of wiring, with the same cross-sectional area installed into a amp double pole switch. Twin and earth supply the switch and heat resistant flex is used as a means of final connection to a water heater.
It can sometimes be difficult to get consistent results when stripping wire by hand, even when using tools that are designed to do so.
It also can give you a consistent look for each of your wires as well. When a panel or any electrical system is wired using ferrules you can be confident that all your termination points are the same and will provide the same great result, reducing any chances of failure at the various termination points throughout your system.
This versatility allows you to use ferrules on very small wires that might be needed for more intricate control work, as well as much larger wire that might be used to distribute or switch high amounts of power in say, MCCs or other more heavy duty applications. So in almost all cases, ferrules can be used to increase the safety and functionality of your wiring. While ferrules can increase the overall cost of your job, the quality and consistency of the work you provide can far outweigh that cost in most cases.
They can also greatly reduce the chance of having to come back at a later date to fix troubled connections and your wiring. Number two, ferrules can provide much more consistency than traditional wiring methods.
Number three, they provide a safe clean method for combining multiple wires together for a single connection point. Number four, with the wide variety of ferrules available they are very versatile and can meet almost all needs and applications you might encounter. And lastly, number five, ferrules increase the overall quality of the work that you provide.
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